Secured climbing route Jof di Montasio – Pipan’s ladder and Via Amalia

Montaž (2753 m) is the second highest mountain in the Julian Alps and offers many approaches from all sides of the mountain. The secured route over the 60-meter Pipan ladder is the easiest in Montaž and takes us over the south wall to the Montaž ridge. In the north wall, the even wilder but protected Via Amalia awaits us. At Montaž we will never be alone, as we will climb past many tropes of ibex.

The first secured climbing route, called PIPAN'S LADDER, is easier and rated at B difficulty. It is 1250 m high, the climbing part is 450 m high and is suitable for those who already have some experience in such a world. It runs from the south side, from the Pecol mountain pasture. Its biggest attraction is the 60-meter Pipan ladder.

The second secured route, called VIA AMALIA, is more difficult and it’s rated at C difficulty. It is 1750 m high, the climbing part is 750 m high and is suitable for those who already have a lot of experience in such a world. It takes place in the mighty northern wall, past the famous North Tower, the Suringar bivouac and through Findenneg's couloir, where we have to overcome a large altitude difference.

The tour for the protected path PIPAN'S LADDER starts on Planina Pecol (1500 m), which can be reached by car. This is followed by a picturesque ascent past the Abruzzi hut (1620 m), all the way to the notch at the top of Strmali (2280 m), where many views of the beautiful surroundings open up. From the notch we turn to the right and arrive to the entrance of the protected path, which leads us through a system of passages, grabs and shelves to the top of the southern Montaž wall. Below the ridge, the most famous ladder in the Julian Alps awaits us - the Pipan's Ladder. A 60 m high ladder takes us to the ridge. We follow the ridge in a west direction and it leads us to the top of Montaž (2753 m). We will descend along the same path.

We start the second secured VIA AMALIA route from the Zajazera valley (1004 m). This is followed by a fairly steep ascent to the Stuparich bivouac (1587 m) and further under the former glacial moraine to the western part of the northern wall of Montaž. The first part along the pillar and further along the chimney it is the steepest and the most beautiful part of climbing. We continue under the North Tower to the distinctive shoulder of Pleče, where we have a fantastic view of the Dunja valley. We cross the western slope and the path leads us to the famous bivouac Suringar, which stands on a prominent ledge (2430 m). We are still waiting for the ascent along the wide Findenneg couloir to the western ridge and along it to the very top. We will descend along the protected path Pipan's ladder, to the planina Pecol.

For a secured route, we recommend a basic self-protection set - a helmet, a climbing harness and a self-protection system, as well as crampons and an ice ax for snowfields in the wall that stay long into the summer. If you do not have your own equipment, you can also rent it from our agency.

The guiding is intended for adults and children from the age of 14. The guided tour starts by appointment, and with our transport we will pick you up in front of your room, apartment or hotel. We take care of all the necessary technical equipment.