Secured climbing route Prisank – Hanzova and Kopiščarjeva route

Wild and daring secured climbing route Prisank was made in twenties and forties in the past century. It has a reputation of the hardest and the longest Slovenian mountain via ferrata route. They guide us trough northern wall of Prisank and offer us a real mountaineering adventure.  

First secured climbing route, named Hanzova Route, is the longest secured climbing route in Julian Alps and has a C grade of difficulty. The height is 1330 m, climbing part is 1100 m long and is suitable for ones with some experience. It was secured in 1926, by an initiative of Ivan Vertelj - Hanza.

Second secured climbing route route, named Kopiščarjeva Route, is the most daring vsecured climbing route in Julian Alps and has a C grade of difficulty. The height is 1000 m, climbing part is 950 m long and is suitable for ones with some experience. It was secured in 1948, by an initiative of Antona Kravanja - Kopiščar. 

Hanzova route starts at Koča na Gozdu (1226 m). The first part of Hanzova route climbs above the waterfall Lambada and it leads us over Hanzova Wall in chimney of Hudičev žleb. In spring and late summer we cross plenty of snow patches, so the usage of ice axe and crampons is necessary. Police pod Turno (2040 m) reminds on Zlatorog’s routes in Northern wall of Triglav. From here we ascend towards upper part of the wall, to the notch between Hudičev steber and the wall of Prisank. From here on, the real steep secured part begins and it leads us to the top of Prisank (2547 m) trough northeast side.

Kopiščarjeva Route starts at Erjavčeva lodge (1525 m). Trough exposed entry ledge and steep chimney we ascend to view point. From here we can see famous face of Pagan girl. From here on, on the reddish part of the wall the most important point of the route awaits on us. A well secured chimney serves us a fantastic real climbing experience. In upper part of the route, we continue through another natural wonder - Prisank window to the western ridge. From here on a pleasant and exposed climbing continues to the top of Prisank.

For the via ferrata, we recommend a basic self-protection set - a helmet, a climbing harness and a self-protection system, ice axe and crampons. If you do not have your own equipment, you can also rent it from our agency.

Guiding is for adults. The guided tour starts by appointment, and with our transport we will pick you up in front of your room, apartment or hotel. We take care of all the necessary technical equipment.